HAIL TO THE CHEF

PATRICK CLARK IS DETERMINED TO BRING THE STATELY HAY-ADAMS INTO THE '90S

When it comes to taking a hard line, the incoming chief executive may learn a few things from the new executive chef across the way. Only four months into his reign over the kitchen of the Hay-Adams Hotel, across Lafayette Park from the White House, Patrick Clark has already established culinary equivalents of no-fly zones and retaliatory strikes.

Consider the Cobb Salad, which has been a menu mainstay for years. Clark didn't like it. The ingredients -- chicken, avocado, bacon, tomatoes and blue cheese -- "were all chopped up and thrown together. It looked like a big mess." So two weeks after his arrival in October, Clark changed it; among other things, he grilled the chicken, sliced it and then fanned it out across the lettuce.

Longtime customers complained. They wanted the old version. Clark's response was simple and swift: He removed the salad from the menu and, to date, has refused to offer it -- despite at least two phone requests a day and a threatened petition drive from a customer.

"I really feel if you don't take the risk and take certain things off the menu that people are used to, people will never be ready for change," the 37-year-old Clark said last week as he took a few minutes to relax in his incredibly small basement office (some apartment closets are bigger) just off the hotel kitchen.

"Washington will be a nice challenge," he said. "It's an old city with some very distinct dining habits. I would like to break some of them."

Clark's arrival, coming so close to the equally iconoclastic Clinton's, has led many federal winers and diners to predict that the elegant but stodgy Hay-Adams will soon become the "in" spot in town -- the Clinton Cafeteria, so to speak.

"Everybody knows the rules all change with a new administration, and bringing a chef with a name to a hotel with a longtime name gives them a significant step up" in the battle to be the new power dining spot, said Vivian Deuschl, spokesperson for the Ritz-Carlton Hotel. Besides, added Deuschl, joining Clark is the well-known former maitre d' from the Ritz-Carlton's Jockey Club, Martin Garbisu. So, said Deuschl, "we will watch {the Hay-Adams} with great interest."

Clinton himself may already have given the Hay-Adams the nod by deciding to stay there instead of Blair House when he came to Washington shortly after the election. Clinton no longer needs a place to stay, of course, but Clark hopes he will come to visit -- and, yes, eat. "I have no problem with him stopping at McDonald's, but I hope we can convince him to come over here a couple of times." Clark won't mind if this becomes a Clinton hang-out, either -- but only if it's not called a cafeteria. "I hope they don't call us that," he said with a grimace.

Hiring Clark was one of the first decisions made by the Hay-Adams's new managing director, Wolf Lehmkuhl, as he launches a major "face-lift" of the 65-year-old hotel (Lehmkuhl refuses to use the word renovation). "This has been a very discreet hotel. Our name is hardly on the door," said Lehmkuhl. "We intend to change that and have the Hay-Adams mentioned in the company of other well-known historic hotels." And to do that, the food must be changed. "Escoffier cuisine may have been fine here in the '50s and '60s, but now it's time to move toward the 21st century."

If anyone has the credentials and the track record to update the hotel's staid cuisine, Lehmkuhl believes it's Clark, a Brooklyn-born, French-trained chef who is credited with starting the chicly anti-chic "bistro" trend in Manhattan, as the chef of TriBeCa's Odeon and the Cafe Luxembourg on the Upper West Side. Eventually Clark struck out on his own and opened Metro, a fashionable, high-priced East Side dining room that got lots of rave reviews but too few customers to be financially viable. So Clark closed Metro and moved to Los Angeles, where he spent the last two years as executive chef of the Beverly Hills Bice. An American chef at an Italian restaurant was considered an odd match, but Clark produced food that won repeated kudos from restaurant critics.

"He's a first-rate chef who's capable of doing anything well," said Tim Zagat, publisher of the customer-driven Zagat restaurant guides.

Slowly but steadily, Clark is tackling the Hay-Adams menu. At dinner, the first menu Clark changed, the popular chateaubriand has been replaced with Grilled Rib Eye of Beef served with stilton blue cheese and potato ravioli, sauteed mushrooms and a ruby port wine sauce. And instead of Red Snapper in a Vermouth-Chive Sauce, there's Crisp Sauteed Rock Bass topped with oven-dried tomatoes and kalamata olives. That's a new dish that Clark is particularly proud of: "The fillet is marinated and then sauteed on the skin-side only, so the skin is crispy. We cover the pan so the flesh is steamed -- there's no need to turn the fish. The sauce is very simple: We saute the shallots to take the bite out of them. Then we toss in oven-dried tomatoes and olives. You don't need too much salt because of the olives ..."

For the first time on the Hay-Adams menu, there's game -- Spit-Roasted California Squab atop a crisp risotto cake served with a spicy wild mushroom sauce, for instance. There's also pasta (it wasn't offered as a main course before, only as a side dish).

A completely revamped lunch menu is yet to come, but already there are new dishes -- Smoked Chicken and Wild Rice Salad or Grilled Tuna Salad with wilted greens, white beans, lemon confit and ginger vinaigrette or Baked Florida Grouper with a horseradish crust.

In other words, rich creamy sauces are out. "People should be able to understand and recognize what's on their plate," commented Clark. "The food shouldn't be covered by fancy garnishes and sauces. Everything should be light and uncomplicated -- except for things that need to be rich, like ice cream," he added as he tested a pot of freshly made vanilla ice cream (which calls for six vanilla beans for every quart of milk).

Not all is perfect, as Clark is the first to admit. Some of the dishes need more seasoning, some need more cooking. "It's going to take about a year to get this place where I want it to be," he says, noting that the kitchen staff and waiters are all learning -- as is Clark, who has never run a hotel kitchen before.

Michael Batterberry, founding editor and associate publisher of Food Arts magazine, finds the twin arrivals of Clinton and Clark, the only young high-profile Black chef in America, "particularly appropriate ... . Throughout the campaign, Clinton said he wanted his cabinet to look like America, and I think that Patrick, being given this plum job, will make the Washington restaurant scene look more like America."

Clark bristles at being called one of the nation's few premier Black chefs. "I just consider myself a chef. The press has considered me a prominent Black chef," he said. Still, he continued, "I think it's a shame that there are not more African-American chefs. We've always been real good cooks, but it's been looked upon as a domestic job. So when civil rights came and there was greater freedom in education and jobs, everyone clamored to be a doctor, lawyer, engineer, and go after the glamour and money-making fields."

For Clark, becoming a chef "was in the blood." His father was a chef with Restaurant Associates when the company ran the Four Seasons and Fonda del Sol in Manhattan. "From the age of 9, I was always tinkering in the kitchen," said Clark. At 12, he said, he spent all of his weekly allowance on cream cheese in search of the ultimate cheesecake. "I used to make cheesecake and then throw it away if I didn't like it." Finally, by age 17, he found the almost-perfect recipe, which he still makes for friends and family. But he's still tinkering with it: Just recently, he decided to use vanilla bean instead of vanilla extract -- "It's so much better that way."

Clark's father tried to talk him out of becoming a chef because it was hard on family life, but Clark persisted, first at his father's alma mater, New York City Technical College. There he was asked if he wanted to train in France, with Michel Guerard, the father of cuisine minceur. "I didn't know who he was, but I said, 'Yes, if it's in France, I'll go.' That truly was the beginning of my career."

Now a father of five -- from 19 months to 11 years -- Clark understands his father's hesitations. Still, he would do it all over again. And despite the failure of his Manhattan eatery, he has not given up the thought of having his own place.

In fact, Clark had plans to open his own restaurant in Los Angeles shortly before Lehmkuhl called. But the Hay-Adams won out -- partly because Clark's wife, Lynette, wanted to return East. What's more, the Los Angeles economy "wasn't really going well and good restaurants were closing. I thought it was not a good time to do it."

So Clark has given a three-year commitment to the Hay-Adams. "I'm prepared to stay three years -- longer if everything goes well." Which is, at the very least, just what Bill Clinton has in mind, too.

ROASTED ROCK BASS WITH OVEN-DRIED TOMATOES, SHALLOTS AND BLACK OLIVES

(4 servings)

4 fillets rock bass (about 8 ounces each)

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 sprig fresh rosemary

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 tablespoon cracked black pepper

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons pure olive oil

12 shallots, sliced thinly

20 pieces of oven-dried tomatoes (recipe follows)

20 oil-cured kalamata olives, chopped

Salt and fresh pepper to taste

Extra virgin olive oil for garnish

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil, plus extra julienned for garnish

Place fish fillets in a nonreactive pan. To prepare the marinade: Combine the herbs, garlic, pepper and one cup of the olive oil, pour over the fish, and marinate for a few hours or overnight. When ready to cook, remove fish from the marinade and drain.

In a saute pan, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil just until hot. Add the sliced shallots and cook until wilted and translucent. Toss in the tomatoes and the olives, heating through just until hot. Season the mixture lightly with salt and fresh pepper to taste. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

Heat a medium nonstick saute pan until hot. Do not add any oil -- the oil remaining on the fish is sufficient. Place the fish in the pan, skin-side down and cover.

Cook over medium-high heat about 7 to 8 minutes, or until fish is just cooked through and the skin is crisp. Season the fish to taste after it is cooked.

Rewarm the vegetables as necessary, adding the chopped basil. Divide them among four dinner plates, making sure the tomatoes are distributed evenly. Place fish fillets skin-side up on top of vegetables and drizzle each with your favorite olive oil. Garnish with extra basil julienne. Serve immediately.

Per serving: 530 calories, 56 gm protein, 11 gm carbohydrates, 30 gm fat, 5 gm saturated fat, 120 mg cholesterol, 307 mg sodium

OVEN-DRIED TOMATOES

(20 to 30 tomato halves)

10 to 15 ripe, but not soft, plum tomatoes

1 to 2 teaspoons of sugar

Kosher salt as needed

1 tablespoon of minced fresh thyme

Preheat oven to its lowest setting, around 175 to 200 degrees. Remove the stem end of each tomato, then split each lengthwise in two and carefully scrape out seeds. Place tomato halves on a baking rack, cut-side up. Season with the sugar, salt and thyme. Place in oven and leave about 4 to 5 hours until tomatoes look somewhat dry and shriveled, but still retain a little moisture. Let them cool on the rack.

They can now be used for above dish. The tomatoes also can be used in salads as a garnish and are a great accompaniment to lamb. Leftovers can be stored in a little olive oil in the refrigerator.

Per tomato half: 20 calories, 0 gm protein, 1 gm carbohydrates, 2 gm fat, 0 gm saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 2 mg sodium

ROASTED RACK OF VEAL WITH BELL PEPPER COMPOTE AND POTATO PANCAKES

(4 servings)

FOR THE MARINADE:

3 sprigs fresh rosemary

3 sprigs fresh thyme

2 crumbled bay leaves

2 tablespoons cracked black pepper

1 clove sliced garlic

3/4 cup olive oil

4-rib veal roast, tied between the bones

Kosher salt to taste

FOR THE COMPOTE:

1/4 cup olive oil

2 red onions cut in a 1/2-inch dice

1 yellow and 1 red bell pepper, roasted, skin removed, seeded, and cut into a 1/2-inch dice

Pinch of fresh thyme

1 clove garlic, thinly chopped

FOR THE SAUCE:

2 cups light veal stock

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Combine the herbs, pepper, garlic and oil. Marinate the roast 24 hours, turning several times (to increase flavor, the roast may be marinated up to 3 days). When ready to cook, remove from marinade and wipe off the herbs. Season lightly with kosher salt.

Sear the veal in a roasting pan, on medium-high heat until golden brown on all sides. Drain excess oil from pan and place roast in a preheated 375-degree oven for about 45 minutes for medium-done. Remove the meat from pan (reserving the pan with any drippings), tent with foil to keep warm, and allow meat to sit.

For the compote, heat 1/4 cup of olive oil and saute red onions until translucent. Add bell peppers and cook 3 minutes more. Stir in thyme and garlic. Season to taste and set aside. (This will require reheating when ready to serve.)

To make the sauce, blot excess oil from reserved roasting pan. Deglaze with the veal stock and reduce over high heat to one cup. Pass through a fine strainer into smaller sauce pan. Heat butter until golden brown. Add lemon juice, then whisk the mixture into the reduced stock, and season to taste. Add any accumulated juice from roast to sauce and keep hot.

To serve, reheat the compote and divide on four dinner plates. Cut roast into four chops and place one on each plate on top of compote. Spoon 2 tablespoons of veal sauce over each and garnish with additional rosemary or thyme sprigs as desired.

Serve remaining sauce on the side and accompany with potato pancakes.

Veal per serving: 597 calories, 54 gm protein, 0 gm carbohydrates, 39 gm fat, 15 gm saturated fat, 203 mg cholesterol, 159 mg sodium

Compote per serving: 150 calories, 1 gm protein, 7 gm carbohydrates, 14 gm fat, 2 gm saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 3 mg sodium

Sauce per serving: 60 calories, 1 gm protein, .4 gm carbohydrates, 6 gm fat, 4 gm saturated fat, 16 mg cholesterol, 392 mg sodium

POTATO PANCAKES

(4 servings)

1 pound (about 3 large baking) potatoes, peeled and grated

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 leek trimmed (white part only)

1 tablespoon butter, or as needed

1/4 small onion, minced

1 large egg

3 tablespoons flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

Salt and pepper to taste

8 tablespoons clarified butter

Bring two quarts of water to a boil, add the potatoes and lemon juice, and blanch for 2 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water until cool. Squeeze in a towel until the excess water is removed.

Saute the leek in a little butter until tender. Drain on a paper towel and set aside.

Combine the potatoes, leeks and onion. Then add the egg, flour and baking powder. Season to taste with salt and fresh pepper, and mix until well combined. Shape into cakes about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter and 1/2 inch high. Heat clarified butter and then saute the potato cakes about 3 minutes per side until golden and crispy. Drain on paper towels. Do not crowd pan; saute in batches if necessary. Serve hot, with the veal chops.

Per serving: 252 calories, 4 gm protein, 30 gm carbohydrates, 13 gm fat, 8 gm saturated fat, 99 mg cholesterol, 227 mg sodium

CORN CAKES WITH SMOKED SALMON AND WASABI SOUR CREAM

(8 servings)

FOR THE CORN CAKES:

3 tablespoons butter

3/4 cup of diced red bell pepper

3 cups fresh corn kernels

1/2 small onion, chopped

1 cup milk

3 large eggs

1 1/2 cups flour

3/4 cup yellow cornmeal

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon fresh black pepper

1/2 cup sliced scallions

Oil for cooking cakes

FOR THE WASABI SOUR CREAM:

2 to 3 tablespoons of Wasabi Powder (Japanese Horseradish Powder), mixed to a smooth paste with cold water

1 cup sour cream

Salt and pepper to taste

FOR THE GARNISH:

Sliced smoked salmon and minced chives

Caviar (optional)

Melt butter and cook red pepper for 3 minutes. Set aside to cool. Do not drain, the butter is necessary for the cakes.

Blend corn, onion, milk and eggs in a blender until smooth. Whisk in the flour, cornmeal, salt and pepper. Stir in the bell pepper-butter mixture, followed by the scallions.

Spoon 2 tablespoons of batter for each corn cake onto a hot oiled griddle, and cook as you would a pancake. Transfer to a plate and keep warm.

For the wasabi sour cream, whisk wasabi paste into the sour cream. Season to taste. Keep refrigerated until ready to use.

To serve, drizzle wasabi sour cream over the corn cakes, serving three per person. Garnish with smoked salmon and chives. Caviar may also served if you desire.

Corn cake per serving: 335 calories, 10 gm protein, 53 gm carbohydrates, 11 gm fat, 4 gm saturated fat, 118 mg cholesterol, 367 mg sodium

Wasabi sour cream per tablespoon: 32 calories, 1 gm protein, 1 gm carbohydrates, 3 gm fat, 2 gm saturated fat, 6 mg cholesterol, 28 mg sodium

MY FIRST CHEESECAKE

(16 to 20 servings)

3 pounds cream cheese, room temperature

1 1/2 cups (12 ounces) sugar

Pinch salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract or the seeds of 1 fresh vanilla bean

3 large eggs

1 cup sour cream or heavy (whipping) cream

Graham cracker crumbs and butter for crust

In the bowl of a mixer, place the cream cheese, sugar, salt and vanilla bean seeds, if using. (If using the extract, add after creaming.)

Cream the mixture at medium speed, until light, then add the vanilla extract, if using, and the eggs, one at a time, mixing for 2 minutes after each addition. Stir in sour cream or heavy cream until well combined.

Butter a springform pan (10-inch diameter with 2 1/2-inch sides) and sprinkle with graham cracker crumbs. Pour batter into pan and bake in a preheated 325-degree oven about 70 minutes, or until cake tests done in the center.

Remove to cake rack to let cool completely. Then remove cake from springform pan and refrigerate. Serve chilled plain, or with your favorite fruit, or fruit sauce.

Per serving: 500 calories, 9 gm protein, 35 gm carbohydrates, 37 gm fat, 23 gm saturated fat, 156 mg cholesterol, 357 mg sodium

Articles appear as they were originally printed in The Washington Post and may not include subsequent corrections.