STEPPING OUT

OBVIOUSLY, Thoreau never came to Washington. To become a walker here requires nothing more direct than a comfortable and sturdy pair of shoes and a lay of the land. Whether you're alone or with companions, the Washington area is walker-friendly, abundant in hiking trails, wooded paths and less-traveled thoroughfares. No heavenly dispensation -- or any destination -- is necessary, and no better months exist than October and November to enjoy this treasure trove.

In the fall, Heaven comes to Washington, and we are reminded, by Nature's last colorful gasp, of the beauty that surrounds us on all sides. Washington is indeed blessed with so much open walking space so close at hand that few large American cities can compare with it in this department.

"The only cities that have the variety of walking trails so close by are San Francisco and Salt Lake City," says Mark Nelson, a district manager for trail maintenance for the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. "Even Seattle, my old hometown, doesn't fare as well anymore. Still, without the Potomac River, Washington would be like Dayton, Ohio. The Potomac corridor is wide, varied and undeveloped, there's a park on either side and the water is clean. Not too many places have these things."

There are, of course, other reasons for our area's natural hiking gifts -- the lack of industry, the local emphasis on shared heritage, dumb luck -- but none may be as important as the foresight of local governments to set aside land for the enjoyment of its citizenry. In the District, this process was there from the beginning, with L'Enfant's original plan allowing for sweeping vistas. In the outlying areas, the process began 30 or more years ago when it became clear that Washington's development would sprawl into rural counties once thought unreachable.

The bureaucracy worked with uncharacteristic swiftness, each jurisdiction (federal, state, county, city, even private land conservancies) gobbling up the available greenery to extend the boundaries of its parks and the mileage of its hiking trails. It's as if one jurisdiction were saying, "Oh yeah? You think that's nice. Well, get a load of this!"

Take, for example, the parks on either side of the Potomac that Nelson mentioned. To counterbalance the more popular trails on the District's side of the river, the Northern Virginia Regional Park Authority offers three equally beautiful and walker-friendly parks on its side -- Potomac Overlook (in Arlington), Algonkian Regional (in the otherwise overdeveloped Sterling) and Red Rocks Wilderness Overlook (near Leesburg). Each offers pleasant hiking opportunities, for novice and rough rider alike. And each benefits from fall foliage.

Then there's the National Park Service, which operates Theodore Roosevelt Island, Fort Marcy and Turkey Run Park, all strung together along the George Washington Memorial Parkway in a smorgasbord. Sometimes, it's difficult to choose an entree.

Governments aren't the only ones who've lent a hand, or a foot, to further our walking opportunities. The private sector and individual volunteers have, for instance, helped restore the 17-mile Blue Trail at Bull Run/Occoquan Regional Park, a stunning path that runs along the Occoquan Reservoir and passes some unexpected history. The trail had eroded in some places -- 30 feet of it fell into a creek -- and needed shoring up with wooden stairs. Trail signs were added. A brochure is forthcoming.

"The Blue Trail is important," says Nelson, who worked on the project. "The surrounding area is being overdeveloped, but at least one side of the stream valley is now protected."

As governmental budget cuts at every level further erode such "non-essentials" as schools, libraries and public parklands, this sort of help is increasingly necessary. All walkers have a part to play. Hiking trails are just that -- for hiking. All-terrain bicycles, mopeds and four-wheel-drive vehicles have done incredible damage to some of our trails, killing underbrush and quickening erosion (not to mention scaring the daylights out of the wildlife and other hikers when they whiz past).

With that in mind, the best places to see foliage, according to Nelson, are those with rapid changes in elevation, such as the Billy Goat Trail north of Potomac or Cunningham Falls State Park near Frederick. Less strenuous routes can be equally rewarding, especially if they take you among a wide variety of trees. The following combine both of these elements. They not only reward the fall foliage lover, but also beg for use in any season. Don't forget about those comfortable and sturdy shoes.

THE DISTRICT

BATTERY-KEMBLE PARK -- If they can turn swords into plowshares, they can turn this former Civil War gun battery into a nice park. Like all good forts, Battery-Kemble is not easy to storm, bounded by three residential streets and accessible by car on only one -- Chain Bridge Road. It's also quite small -- an eighth of a mile wide and a mile long. Still, stunning hills rim Battery-Kemble, making it one of the city's most commanding promontories, overlooking Chain Bridge and the river. A short trail follows the creek bed below. To expand your hike beyond this pleasant tree-laden route, take in some of the surrounding neighborhoods along Nebraska Avenue, Foxhall Road and Chain Bridge Road, where the eclectic architecture competes with the leaves for visual stimulation.

The gravel driveway entrance to Battery-Kemble Park is on the east side of Chain Bridge Road NW between MacArthur Boulevard and Loughboro Road.

GLOVER-ARCHBOLD PARK --

The most enigmatic natural area in the city, Glover-Archbold is not a park in the strictest sense -- only in the best sense. It's a 100-acre swath of lush, nearly virgin woodland given to the public in 1924 by Charles C. Glover and Anne Archbold to be used as a bird sanctuary. No governmental body has control over it, though the National Park Service has some loose jurisdiction. Because of this, Glover-Archbold's wildness evokes the mystery and power of unbridled nature. Tucked behind apartment buildings near the National Catheral, it allows you an amazingly swift exit from city noise under an unbroken canopy of leaves not unlike a rain forest. A marked trail entrance can be found near the corner of Garfield Street and New Mexico Avenue, but for the most part, you're on your own to wander among the two miles of trees. Thank you, Charles and Anne.

There's no official entrance to the park, but the easiest route is via Wisconsin Avenue north, left on Cathedral Avenue, left on New Mexico Avenue. Park anywhere on New Mexico Avenue or on 42nd Street above the Community Garden.

ROCK CREEK PARK -- Everyone knows about this, the granddaddy of Washington's parks. Some things bear repeating, though: The 1,800 acres of Rock Creek Park in the District (another 2,700 acres extend into Montgomery County) contain 27 miles of trails and a Nature Center, all administered by the National Park Service. For starters, go to the Nature Center (on Glover Road south of Military Road; 202/426-6829), pick up trail maps and then enjoy a boundless national treasure that includes tulip poplar, oak, ash, birch, papaw, sycamore and hickory. Oh yes, and a creek. To get your feet wet, try the two short -- 1/2- and 1/4-mile -- loop trails that leave from the Nature Center. For longer hikes, two separate but parallel trails -- the Western Ridge Trail and the Valley Trail -- run the length of Rock Creek Park. Connecting trails between the two allow for hikes of varying lengths.

THEODORE ROOSEVELT ISLAND -- This 88-acre wilderness preserve sits in the middle of the Potomac River off the coast of the Kennedy Center. A bird sanctuary teeming with life, the island can be traversed via a 2.5-mile-long hiking trail that runs through every conceivable terrain (beach, swamp, hills, thick woods) and offers remarkable views of the waterfront. A monument to ardent conservationist Teddy Roosevelt sits at the island's center -- a Stalin-like statue of TR and an amphitheater. A particularly nice view of the Potomac Valley's fall foliage can be had at the south end, nearest Key Bridge. To get to the island from the District, cross Roosevelt Bridge, stay in the right lane of George Washington Parkway and immediately turn right into the parking lot.

MARYLAND

WOODEND --

The woods of suburban Maryland do indeed end here, but the experience is a sweet one. Located a tire's toss from the Beltway in Chevy Chase, Woodend is home to the Audubon Naturalist Society. Its headquarters and bookshop are in the restored red-brick mansion of the Wells family, who willed the 40 acres to the society. (Incidentally, the mansion was designed by John Russell Pope, who built the National Gallery and the Jefferson Memorial.) Although you can't go 10 feet at Woodend without seeing huge stilted birdhouses, the real lure in the autumn is the on-site Nature Trail. Located directly behind the mansion, it's short and clearly marked with numbered posts corresponding to descriptions in a free brochure. You get to see some unusual trees, like the Franklina altahama (named for Ben Franklin), eastern hemlocks and copper beech, as well as more common tulip trees, Virginia pine and American beech, the latter particularly old, thick and majestic. Woodend is at 8940 Jones Mill Rd. in Chevy Chase, across from Rock Creek Park. 301/652-9188.

WHEATON REGIONAL PARK -- Just beyond the asphalt horror of Georgia Avenue, Wheaton Regional Park beckons. Within the 500 acres of this globe-shaped woodland are more autumn hiking opportunities than you can shake a walking stick at. To get your bearings, go first to the Brookside Nature Center, maybe even look at the penned ducks and geese and peruse the tiny museum. You have three nice options. First, there's the celebrated Brookside Gardens, a 50-acre jewel that boasts a "winter" season. The other two options are the hiking trails that begin directly behind the Nature Center -- a self-guided trail and the Oxbow Trail. Both are well marked and cover about four miles of thick virgin Maryland woodlands. Enter at 1500 Glenallen Ave. (between Randolph and Kemp Mill roads) in Wheaton. 301/946-9071.

NORTHWEST BRANCH PARK -- Caressing Wheaton Regional on the shoulder, this long thin park stretches several miles, from Colesville to Hyattsville. Northwest Branch is a tributary of the Anacostia River and along with Sligo Creek Park in Silver Spring, it serves as a junior partner to Rock Creek Park to the west, which stretches past Rockville. The seven-mile Watersedge trail follows the stream's bank and cuts through some unexpectedly lovely woods deep in the heart of suburban Maryland. Enter near 15300 Layhill Rd. (north of Bonifant Road) in Wheaton. 301/593-9462.

SUGARLOAF MOUNTAIN -- Sugarloaf is an isolated bump that sits among flat surroundings. Thus, its 1,280 feet looms larger than it would had its neighboring mountains not eroded over time. This merely enhances Sugarloaf's appeal as a panoramic promontory, allowing visitors a 360-degree view of Frederick Valley from atop its 150-foot cliffsides. You can either drive to the top of the mountain for the view or hike up two different trails of varying -- though not overly strenuous -- difficulty. There are a total of 12 miles of trail. Recommended is the Blue Blazes Trail that circumnavigates the upper part of the mountain. From the Beltway, take I-270 north to a right on Route 109. Drive three miles to a right on Comus Road and go 2.5 miles to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance. 301/926-4510.

GAMBRIL STATE PARK/FREDERICK MUNICIPAL FOREST -- Since Frederick is no longer considered a road trip, the forests, mountains and parks of Frederick County are being spiritually incorporated by every nature-loving Washingtonian. A discouraging word will never be heard about Gambril State Park, a 1,137-acre woodland located on Catoctin Mountain. The five miles of trails are more challenging than most found in Washington, and the stunning views of foliage (mostly oak, birch, poplar) are worth the extra effort. The trails in Frederick Municipal Forest are even more rugged. The best trail is the Lost Chestnut Nature Trail, leaflets for which can be picked up on the premises. From the Beltway, take I-270 north to Frederick, then pick up I-70 west to Exit 49 (Route 40 west) and follow to the park. 301/473-8360.

CATOCTIN MOUNTAIN PARK/CUNNINGHAM FALLS STATE PARK -- Though one is a national park and the other a state park, they are good neighbors and, together, comprise 6,000 acres of gorgeous fall scenery and 50 miles of hiking trails. Camp David is here, a tipoff to how impressive these parks are. The crowning jewel is Cunningham Falls, a 78-foot waterfall located at the heart of one of the multiple hiking trails -- which range in length from a half-mile to over nine miles. The list of furry and feathered species found in these parks would fill a PBS documentary, but the following trees are not uncommon: beech, oak (red, white and chestnut), hemlock, ash, sassafras, wild cherry, black locust and hickory. In short, bring the camera, because this is one for the autumn almanac. From the Beltway, take I-270 north past Frederick to U.S. 15 north to Thurmont. Go one mile west on Route 77 to Catoctin's entrance. Cunningham Falls is right next door on Route 77. 301/824-2574 (Catoctin), 301/271-7574 (Cunningham Falls).

SMALLWOOD STATE PARK -- As the name suggests, this is a small (629 acres) but thickly wooded pocket of land located along the Mattawoman Creek in Charles County. Even the entrance sign plays down the monumental: "Welcome to one of Maryland's little gems." But that can be deceptive, because the nearby woods are located along a floodplain, making them as popular with animals as people. Lured here are foxes, muskrats, raccoons, otters, minks (yes) and ducks. Combined, the three easily walkable trails in the park span about four miles and take you through a colorful array of deciduous trees, including river birch, tulip poplar, black cherry, hickory and sycamore. For history buffs, the restored plantation home of Gen. William Smallwood, a Revolutionary War hero and Maryland governor, is located on the premises. From the Beltway, take Indian Head Highway/Route 210 south to Route 224 to the park entrance on the right. Free admission between Labor Day and Memorial Day, $4 rest of the year. 301/743-7613

PISCATAWAY PARK/NATIONAL COLONIAL FARM -- At this unusual park, you get to see what George Washington saw. This large (4,500 acres) public-private cooperative is in Prince George's County, directly across the Potomac from Mount Vernon. In the words of Doug Elam, the farm's administrator, "You'd have to drive for hours in any direction to find something like this." The National Park Service and the Accokeek Foundation share responsibilities here, but much of the credit goes to local residents, who've agreed to "scenic easements" and other strict development covenances to keep this area from backsliding (as recently as 1957, when the land was purchased, it was an oil tank farm).

Although the farm -- a real, working, living lab of history -- is popular with kids and worth a separate summer visit, the fall provides ample opportunities for scenic post-harvest walking. A five-mile loop trail takes you around the farm property and teaches ecological lessons, too -- the chestnut tree grove, the native tree arboretum and the bluebird trail (replete with 50 birdhouses) are all trying to promote "comebacks" of these vanishing species. But the greatest lure in the autumn is what Elam calls "the view" -- a promontory at the top of an Eastern hardwood forest that encompasses both sides of the Potomac River and Mount Vernon. It is breathtaking, and not just from the physical exertion to get there. You can toss in a little extra history by visiting nearby Fort Washington, just over Piscataway Creek. Run by the National Park Service, it's a Colonial-era fort but also has 340 acres of land and a nice river trail that overlooks some of the same leafy territory. From the Beltway, take Indian Head Highway/Route 210 south to Bryan Point Road. Turn right and follow the signs to Piscataway Park at 3400 Bryan Point Rd. in Accokeek. admission is $2 for adults, 50 cents for ages under 12. 301/283-2113. NORTHERN VIRGINIA

BULL RUN/OCCOQUAN REGIONAL PARK -- Typical of a Northern Virginia regional park, this one is a multi-use facility, with the recreational area shunted off to one corner while the bulk of the land is quietly protected for hikers and other animals. With 5,000 acres of parkland and 25 miles of waterfront (along Bull Run Creek and the Occoquan Reservoir), Bull Run/Occoquan offers plenty of room for autumnal roaming. The main attraction is the Blue Trail, a 17-mile nature trail that passes through Hemlock Overlook Park and Fountainhead Regional Park (which afford great watery vistas) as well as ambles past remnants of the two important Civil War battles fought here. The trail has recently been refurbished by volunteers and a private grant, with clear trailhead signs now in place. The Blue Trail provides a good workout even for veteran hikers, so if you doubt your prowess, stop at Fountainhead for the view. You might even catch a glimpse of a bald eagle, soaring above the foliage. Other, shorter trails are available, including the Yellow Trail and the White Trail, the latter featuring the Bluebell Nature Loop, a 1.5-mile trail marked with signs describing the local flora and fauna. From the Beltway, take I-66 west to Route 123 south to a right on Clifton Road, left on Henderson Road and left on Old Yates Ford Road to the Bull Run park entrance; call 703/631-0549. For information on all Northern Virginia regional parks, call 703/352-5900.

POTOMAC OVERLOOK -- Like Woodend in Chevy Chase, Potomac Overlook can be found where the woods of Arlington end. Its snug 100 acres sit atop the Potomac River palisades and offer easy and pleasurable short hikes among the area's original woodlands, where oaks and tulip poplars abound. This is the perfect spot for first-time hikers nervous about leaping into the unknown. The Potomac Overlook Nature Center is a beehive of information about Northern Virginia's trails, and the on-site staff organizes excursions. From this woody junction, you can branch way out by hooking up with the Potomac Heritage Trail (see below) or stay close by hooking up with Arlington County's Donaldson Run. From the Beltway, take the George Washington Parkway north to the Spout Run exit, bear right onto Lorcom Lane. Turn right on Nellie Custis/Military Road to a right on Marcey Road and the park entrance. 703/528-5406.

RED ROCK WILDERNESS OVERLOOK -- Less crowded than Great Falls or the C&O Canal towpath but equally as blessed with scenic views of the river, the 67-acre Red Rock is a serious walker's paradise. No frills or even facilities can be found here -- just a parking lot and trails leading over hill and dale. (Note that the private house nearby is off limits.) This is as gloriously back to nature as it gets in Northern Virginia. Both the Loblolly Trail and the Spruce Trail provide ample viewing points of a bend in the Potomac and the foothills of the Shenandoah. For information about guided foliage hikes, call the Potomac Overlook Nature Center, which organizes them. From the Beltway, take Route 7 west to U.S. 15 north. Turn right on Route 773/Edwards Ferry Road and head 1.5 miles to the park entrance.

PRINCE WILLIAM FOREST PARK -- Three hundred years ago, there were no trees here. Like present-day rain forest extermination, the original trees here were chopped down by settlers to make way for crops. Sloppy soil conservation soon ruined the area for agriculture, too. As if to inspire 20th-century tree lovers, the trees that are now in Prince William Forest slowly returned when they were left alone. Today this forest is a haven for 90 tree species, including Virginia pine, oak, hickory, beech and maple.

Almost 40 miles of trails take you through 20,000 acres of forests, pockets of which are so still that all you can hear is your shoes and the scurrying of raccoons, deer and rabbits. As is usually the case with any National Park Service-run park, the trails are clearly marked and most are loop trails to bring you back to where you began. For seriously outward bounders, a "primitive" backpack camp is also available. From the Beltway, take I-95 south to Route 619 west to the main entrance. Maps are available here from the rangers. 703/221-7181.

TURKEY RUN -- Located one exit from the CIA on George Washington Parkway, Turkey Run is too often overlooked. The effort here has been placed on public access. All you have to do is pull off the parkway, carefully follow the brown and white signs and park in one of three lots provided. Lot C-1 is the closest to walking trails; Lot C-3 is closest to the GW Parkway headquarters, where trail maps are available. There's a short Turkey Run Loop Trail and a much more grueling series of steep zigzagging "switchbacks" that lead down to the river and the Potomac Heritage Trail. Just standing up here after a long day and basking in the lulling silence is a minor miracle. From the Beltway, take the parkway north to the Turkey Run exit.

POTOMAC HERITAGE TRAIL -- This 10-mile wooded path parallels the George Washington Parkway from Theodore Roosevelt Island to the American Legion Bridge. Running mostly through a forested stream valley, it winds between the Potomac River and the rocky hillsides of its palisades, at times requiring a steep ascent. It can be accessed by car from practically every exit off the parkway, and it's even reachable by following the signs from the Rosslyn Metro station. What more can you ask?

Officially, the Potomac Heritage Trail is on National Park Service land, but it's actually part of the larger Potomac National Scenic Trail, which will eventually be 700 miles long and trace "natural and cultural features of the Potomac River Basin in Virginia, Maryland, Pennsylvania and the District of Columbia." For information about the trail, contact the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club in Vienna at 703/242-0315. Brochures with trail maps can be picked up at any of the eight trailheads (including the short, level Roosevelt Island route; the steep descent and longer trail from Turkey Run and a lengthy hike from Chain Bridge).

Alan Bisbort last wrote for Weekend about the bridges of Washington.

Next Friday: Weekend goes further afield, communing with the flora and fauna of Shenandoah National Park.

Articles appear as they were originally printed in The Washington Post and may not include subsequent corrections.